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 My journey through Crystalia 
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Denizen
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Joined: February 28th, 2014, 4:32 pm
Posts: 357
TBB wrote:
I used to use a black spray primer for a long time, but then I started experiencing with white and I kinda liked it more, but it kinda depends on the sort of mini's you paint. If would have to paint an army of chaos, I'd probably use black again..
Now I'm just using either acryll white or a grey primer from an acryl range of aerosols...

For brushes I use Winsor & Newton W&N Series 7 Miniature Sable Watercolour Brush.
For most parts I can use a number 1, that brush is just so excellent and perfect pointed that you can even do most details with the same brush.
For really thin lines such as around the eyes I use a number 000.
They are a bit more expensive than most other common used brushes, but the quality is really worth it's coins. Also these brushes helped me a lot to reach a higher painting-level then before (took me a while to realize the brush matters a lot).
A pointed brush stays a pointed brush, not like Citadel-brushes where a pointed brush turns into a wild bouquet after 1 single mini...

I also use a magnifying daylight led-lamp for the finest work and snap pictures when I think something isn't right. After enlarging the pic I usually see where it needs adjustments and then pick up the brush again... A face easily takes 3 hours to finish (in my case) of which the eyes only take the biggest half of it.
I've never done the eyes perfect from the first time and even now with they are still not perfect enough (the eyeliner / eyelashes on the outer corners isn't symmetric enough), but I will live with it ;)
So doing that final thin black line usually goes like: black line... !SODA!, fine-tuning with white... arg, black again, oh now I need fleshcolor, oops, black and white again... and so on until it's a real thin line... (and then sometimes realize it doesn't look good and restart again)


I like my Citadel brushes, they've served me really well in the 6 months I've had them. My original Citadel ones were garbage (and my experience with Army Painter is in the same boat.)

I want to get a nice expensive ultra detail brush but I'm afraid I'll end up not taking care of it and make it worthless in the end.

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SPM_Deke wrote:
Shadowclaimer wrote:
SPM_Deke,
Will Captain R ever get some love and get his skeletal crew or will he forever remain the captain that went down with his ship and left them behind?
Not for this kickstarter, but we love us some pirates! ;)


November 5th, 2015, 10:43 am
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Denizen
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Joined: March 23rd, 2015, 12:21 pm
Posts: 273
Location: France
I use Raphael Kolinsky brushes, they are a little expensive but if you treat them well and clean them direclty after you use them, they'll last long !
I think the most common mistake is to pick paint directly from the painting pots, it's a lot better to use a wet palette instead, your brushes will last longer doing this !


November 5th, 2015, 11:38 am
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Bottle Cap
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Joined: October 22nd, 2015, 7:51 am
Posts: 17
been lurking in the shadows and found some Candy! :)

Image

For some reason her blade hung about 2mm above the base, so instead of bending it in hot water I decided to make her sword pointy (or point not stuck into the ground) like on the artwork...

I'm liking the change, eventhough I know it's bad to start something new while the previous one isn't finished yet... aswell as I predict that I'll probably get seduced by another one again before Candy is done...


November 5th, 2015, 6:26 pm
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Consul
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Joined: June 20th, 2012, 8:00 pm
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Location: Sønderholm, Denmark
So far so good. Really like the shading around the eyes.

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November 5th, 2015, 7:27 pm
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Denizen
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Joined: March 23rd, 2015, 12:21 pm
Posts: 273
Location: France
Great shadings !
I love how you paint the eyes, it really add something to the mini.


November 6th, 2015, 6:23 am
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Minion
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Joined: March 15th, 2012, 11:32 pm
Posts: 56
Looks great. It's nice to see the quality of color you get with white. I just don't have the time anymore so I have to cheat and use black :P. The glass bottles on your alchemist are amazing and I am definitely stealing your tech. Looking forward to seeing your finished Shadow Candy.

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November 7th, 2015, 12:10 am
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Minion
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Joined: May 24th, 2015, 11:32 pm
Posts: 150
Good start on that Candy, though with no whites on the inside of either eye, she looks a little cross-eyed.


November 7th, 2015, 11:42 pm
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Minion
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Joined: August 24th, 2015, 1:56 pm
Posts: 180
Location: Denmark
A really nice start with Candy, great choice of colour for the eyes. I'm excited to see what colours you choose for the clothes :).

Another thing though, totally unrelated, a piece of contructive criticism: It looks like you hold your primer can too close to the model while priming or maybe spray for too long. The white colour pools in recesses and the model colour shows at raised areas. Its not a big thing, but it means that your next colours won't stick as well to the model (and easier rub off or whatever). Try to spray in several light coats. It would be horrible to see your great paint job starting to flake off :(.


November 10th, 2015, 9:42 am
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Bottle Cap
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Joined: October 22nd, 2015, 7:51 am
Posts: 17
Thanks all for the nice words :)

@Anajadys: haha, yeah, totally agree on that. In fact while I was painting them, I was fully concentrated looking deep in her eyes and suddely the image of her looking cross-eyes popped up in my mind and I couldn't resist laughing. I'm keeping it as it is for now, but if she tends to look cross-eyes in the end, I'll probably redo them :) (thanks for telling me, my wife didn't agree with me when she wondered why I was laughing...)

@Roar: The colors will be as close as possible to the artwork on the box (black leather / purple clothes / ...)
Thanks also for the advice on the priming. I know I should better do two coats, but I never have enough patience to add a second coat... I always cover the raised areas again with a brush or just apply an extra thin coat (but you're absolutely right)... Another thing I had during priming this model is that I had to put the mini on a brick outside to spray and so I couldn't reach all areas (couldn't find the box of gloves to be able to spray from all sides). I hold my can about 30cm from the mini.
Since I don't play with the mini's I never had any troubles of paint flaking off... but I'm so glad you tell me this cause when nobody forces me into doing the extra effort I'll probably never change ;)

I've done some more work on her meanwhile, just some base-coats over her clothes to give a better idea of what the end-result will look like, but my hands are trembling today (excitement of the KS-finals maybe?) and now my daughter just woke up and she behaves like a dungeon-goddess... killing all that crosses her path ;) so better put all my stuff far away from her grabby-hands :D


November 11th, 2015, 10:08 am
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Minion
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Joined: March 1st, 2016, 11:15 am
Posts: 248
Location: France
Hello,

I have checked my alchemist fae, and turns out that she has the same lump. I know this thread might be a bit old, but... any advices on how to fix it ? Which tools to use, how to cut out the lump ? Thanks a lot


March 14th, 2016, 10:03 am
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Denizen
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Joined: February 17th, 2016, 4:39 pm
Posts: 261
Millenia wrote:
Hello,

I have checked my alchemist fae, and turns out that she has the same lump. I know this thread might be a bit old, but... any advices on how to fix it ? Which tools to use, how to cut out the lump ? Thanks a lot


Any razor will work.

My painting skills are average at best but I have done a ton of kitbashing models over the years. I personally like to just use a standard flat razor blade refill free hand. Some people use Xacto knives or other modelling knives.

I find I have better control just holding the small blade.

Image
http://www.lowes.com/pd_79621-16878-558 ... 66789&pl=1


March 14th, 2016, 4:16 pm
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Denizen
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Joined: February 17th, 2016, 4:39 pm
Posts: 261
As for how to cut it out...

Go slow, be careful, razors will cut deep and fast. That includes your fingers, so always, ALWAYS cut away from you. That includes other body parts. Don't sit crosslegged on the floor and start cutting, only to have your hand slip and slice your leg. Sorry if that sounds obvious but accidents can happen.

As for the miniature hold it or brace it gently against a table (I like to put something under it that you don't care if it get's sliced up). I have a craft mat, but you could use scrap wood or even card board. You would be surprised how easy it can be to nick the surface you are working on. This is extra true when cutting something right off, like an arm or a weapon.

Slowly rock the blade back and forth. Don't be afraid to remove the lump in a few passes. In this case I would cut in from the top of the lump somewhat parallel to the base, then do the same to the bottom. Then do a vertical cut from the front and sort of peel it away. If you screw anything up...that is what green stuff is for :-)

Once you have the major lump gone you should be able to "sculpt" the plastic in the area to look nice.


March 14th, 2016, 4:23 pm
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