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 Some new custom boards! 
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Bottle Cap
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Hello again, after a much needed hiatus I'm back in full production mode and wanted to share a few pics of the new boards I'm working on. This time around I'm doing the Egyptian theme, using a combination of hirst arts molds and some custom stuff. I've been able to finish up 2 tiles in what will be a total of 6 for a complete board. I'm hoping to have all 6 finished in time for pax south and figure out some way to get them there for a few games.

https://flickr.com/photos/132814007@N02 ... 9917975652

I would like to get some video posted at some point the pictures don't really do the torches justice as they flicker like a flame.
Thanks for taking a look.


October 16th, 2015, 9:10 pm
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So cool! :shock:

I cant wait to see SPM do stuff for the Arcadia Dunes area of Crystalia, but I don't think their tiles could compare to what you have so far! I lust love the detail of that fountain!


October 16th, 2015, 9:28 pm
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Thanks, I started planning these before they announced the next kickstarter and was hoping for the dunes area but I'm pleased with the tower and have started planning a board for it after I finish Egypt. The fountain and columns are removable and all of the tiles can be rotated thanks to a few slim connector hallways. I'll update this thread as I finish the rest of the boards.


October 16th, 2015, 9:41 pm
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I think it's great

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October 26th, 2015, 3:47 am
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Maritiku wrote:
Hello again, after a much needed hiatus I'm back in full production mode and wanted to share a few pics of the new boards I'm working on. This time around I'm doing the Egyptian theme, using a combination of hirst arts molds and some custom stuff. I've been able to finish up 2 tiles in what will be a total of 6 for a complete board. I'm hoping to have all 6 finished in time for pax south and figure out some way to get them there for a few games.

https://flickr.com/photos/132814007@N02 ... 9917975652

I would like to get some video posted at some point the pictures don't really do the torches justice as they flicker like a flame.
Thanks for taking a look.



First off, Wow.

Second off, Amazing.

Lastly, I have a question, how do you mold the base boards, do you do multiple pieces and then glue them together on a flat piece? If so, what kind of underpiece do you use?

Thanks.


December 3rd, 2015, 2:16 pm
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Maritiku wrote:
This time around I'm doing the Egyptian theme, using a combination of hirst arts molds and some custom stuff.

Very nice stuff - I also have some Hirst Arts mold tiles!!

So they are 1 inch, that's very handy for SDE tiles! =)

Very nice what you did with the torches (what is it, model railway lights?) and the water coming out of the fountain!!!


December 4th, 2015, 11:11 am
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Ok, sorry for the delay but I have the worst luck with these forums, I constantly have to reset my password anytime I want to post.

Yes they are the 1inch hirst arts tiles. This is my second set of hirst arts boards for SDE and Ive learned a lot this time around.i started out making the boards 1 square at a time but as you can imagin it takes forever. So on my first project I made some of my own molds that were 4x4 sections and combined them for tiles. It was ok but still slow going. This project I made a mold of tiles 14x14 so I could knock the floor out in one cast. It worked out much better. I've finished all 6 of my Egyptian boards some pics are already uploaded to flicker but I'll get some more complete pictures this weekend. I've decided I won't be taking on anymore projects 6 tiles large, a 6 tiles game just takes too long to play. I'm super excited for legends and the idea of make several smaller modular boards is a lot more appealing. If anyone is going to pax south this year you will be able to see these in person.

The torches are made from tea lights and hot glue. I got the basic idea for them from DM Scotty's Youtube channel. Big fan of his tabletop low budget ideas for building your own terrain.

I'm currently working on a set of 4 tiles of different heights themed like the midnight tower. To get the feel of ascending the tower while you play each successive board is 2-3 inches higher than the previous. I can't wait to get it finished!


December 8th, 2015, 4:52 pm
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Cleaned up the Flickr somewhat and added some albums to make it easier to find whatever your looking for.

Also I use foam board insulation as the base for the boards. 3/4 inch or 1 inch gives you the strength needed to hold the weight of the plaster. All of the standing water effects are a 2 part resin that is usually used for hints like bar tops or table tops in restaurants. After the standing water has hardened I use 1-2 strands of fishing line to shape how the "moving" water will look and the direction it's flowing. Then very lightly coat the fishing line with a 2 part 5 min epoxy resin. The effect on the large fountain board looks much better than the first attempt. Realized that if you get the fishing line secured in place before you do any resin work it looks much cleaner. The 8 fountains look more realistic than the first board.


December 8th, 2015, 5:17 pm
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Location: In the West, where temples rise around a Saline Lake
You might have already answered a similar question regarding a prior project and if so I apologize.

When you work with Hirst Arts molds do you find regular plaster sufficient or do you follow Hirst's advice and spend a bit more on dental stone? Your project is amazing and I was already considering getting some molds from him but you have sealed the deal for me and I want to plan out just how much of an investment I'll likely be making (as I'll need to prepare a speech for the wife).


December 11th, 2015, 6:19 am
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They look spectacular.

I'm very interested in the lights. Can you show us some pictures of how the electronics are implemented?
I'd like to do something like that with other projects, but I'm a complete noob in regard to anything like that.

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December 11th, 2015, 9:00 am
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Maritiku wrote:
The torches are made from tea lights and hot glue. I got the basic idea for them from DM Scotty's Youtube channel. Big fan of his tabletop low budget ideas for building your own terrain.

Yes I also have them, but haven't experimented with them like you did! Very nice!! =)
I wonder how you did the fountain water? Vallejo water effects, perhaps?

After I finish my current diorama project I like to do a custom board as well, probably a forest one (for the mushrooms and such).
Pondering how to introduce tile effects (difficult terrain, brambles, chasm); put a symbol on the ground, should it be self-explanatory, something else? Any tips?


December 11th, 2015, 12:01 pm
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I've been thinking more in terms of making blocks so you can re-arrange your dungeon (up side more variation, down side not as good a finished look as a one piece board)
I was planning on having blocks with tile effects have the effect symbol on them, either as a triangle in one corner with the symbol clearly punched into it, or as a symbol that is part of the tile ie. brambles coiled to from the appropriate symbol etc, I have not decided which way to go, but some thoughts I have had are ...

Make the tiles 1.5 inch so there is enough room for the minis without the sardine can effect that I get on the boards that come with the game,
(I understand that box size is an issue and as a base game it works but it is frustrating stopping to play tetris in the middle of a SDE game, when there is enough table space for larger boards)

Have different block heights, and use this to mean different things... I haven't checked that they all make sense but something along the lines of ...

1 unit - Chasm and other 'low' tiles
2 units - no effect and models can move through and also stay here (ie standard empty square)
3 units - some effect and models can move through and also stay here (ie difficult terrain)
4 units - tiles where units can move through but not stay
5 units (possibly higher) - tiles where units cannot move or stay (i.e. structures)

All block edges to be 2 units high (Have not worked out which height to use for a unit)

Have each block have a symbol to represent it's tile effects if any

Walls are to be thin so as not to encroach too much into each square.

Hopefully these ideas might be useful to others...


December 11th, 2015, 6:50 pm
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anon wrote:
I've been thinking more in terms of making blocks so you can re-arrange your dungeon (up side more variation, down side not as good a finished look as a one piece board)
I was planning on having blocks with tile effects have the effect symbol on them, either as a triangle in one corner with the symbol clearly punched into it, or as a symbol that is part of the tile ie. brambles coiled to from the appropriate symbol etc, I have not decided which way to go, but some thoughts I have had are ...

Make the tiles 1.5 inch so there is enough room for the minis without the sardine can effect that I get on the boards that come with the game,
(I understand that box size is an issue and as a base game it works but it is frustrating stopping to play tetris in the middle of a SDE game, when there is enough table space for larger boards)
Have different block heights, and use this to mean different things... I haven't checked that they all make sense but something along the lines of ...

1 unit - Chasm and other 'low' tiles
2 units - no effect and models can move through and also stay here (ie standard empty square)
3 units - some effect and models can move through and also stay here (ie difficult terrain)
4 units - tiles where units can move through but not stay
5 units (possibly higher) - tiles where units cannot move or stay (i.e. structures)

All block edges to be 2 units high (Have not worked out which height to use for a unit)
Have each block have a symbol to represent it's tile effects if any
Walls are to be thin so as not to encroach too much into each square.

Hopefully these ideas might be useful to others...

Yes I was actually also thinking about making the individual tiles a bit wider, like 26-30mm. That way the minis have a little more space and I can put "effects" between them,. like grass - or later tiny streams of lava. And, as you indicated, put in some walls without severely decreasing moving space. So I see only advantages and indeed, the current (Forgotten King) tiles are about 22.6mm/0.89 inch (the minis are on ~24mm bases, though). Kitchen tables are close to 90cm/3' - so there will still be plenty of room left with 31-36 cm tiles.

For the rest not worried about chasms and building, they will of course speak for themselves! And yes, I also think that indicating more difficult terrain may be done by putting/engraving symbols on the ground. And perhaps sometimes using some kind of warning sign?
What also is a nice idea is to make some parts of the tile changable. Like a statue in a graveyard scene that could be used to indicate the (mini-)boss that will spawn.

Lastly I think it's a pity that there are some models that take up 4 squares because it is limiting your options; all passages must be 2 tiles wide instead of 1.
I am almost tempted to prohibit the use of big base heroes!


Last edited by Teowulff on December 12th, 2015, 11:04 am, edited 1 time in total.



December 11th, 2015, 7:15 pm
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Thanks Teowulff

I don't think that the large bases would be too much of an issue,

You'll need to allow for that size so the bosses can get to the heroes so yes 2 wide corridors etc, but in terms of different heights of blocks if the base of the model is filled in with modelling putty etc, it should balance ok on the highest block if you move it's center so it is inside the corner of the highest block (hopefully this makes sense)

The existing tile layouts seem fine and allow for the larger bases, so similar setups using blocks should work equally well.

(Of course you could put in shortcuts that are only one square wide to reward small base models...)

I hadn't measured the squares yet, and so while they seemed a bit small I had assumed that they were 1 inch / 25 mm, that they are smaller mens that I might not need to go quite so large on the block size (25 * 1.5 = 37.5) if i'm scaling up from 22.6mm even 30mm may be enough I should print some different size paper sheets and see what comes of it...

Regards,
anon


December 11th, 2015, 7:39 pm
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Lets see if I can get these answers
@gerdion
Glad you've decided to give hirst a try the molds are great I've had some for 15 years and they still cast well. If your going to cast any of the molds except the basic wall or basic floor tile molds you will need dental plaster or that hydrostone stuff. I've used the art plaster and stuff you can find at michaels and the hobby stores but it's noticeably weaker and some of the small fine detail pieces won't come out of the mold without breaking. For basic floor or wall brick molds you could probably use the art plaster and not worry too much. Save your dental plaster for the other molds.

@Goblin-king
I didn't take any pictures during the construction of the torches I suppose I should next time. It's actually very simple to put together, Here is the video link to DM Scottys video explaining how to make your own. I used the same basic principle and just modified it to fit on the boards. I basically took a tea light, removed the led and attached it to a wire to extend it so I could hide the base in under the boards.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9BDKrvkYWMY

@Teowulff
The water effects are a combination of "Super Glaze" bar top resin. I picked mine up at lowes. I use it for any standing water like the base of the fountains or pools of blood on my Diablo 2 themed board. The water in motion effects are a strand or 2 of fishing line fixed in the position you want the water to go then coated with any clear 2 part epoxy like JB Weld, anything that will dry clear and sets in about 5 mins. I debated painting on tile effects and blessings but in the end decided to skip it in the essence of time. If I decide i really want them they shouldn't be difficult to add. For tips I'd say your best bet is to search youtube for videos and tutorials for war gaming terrain and D&D terrian. You can find almost anything, great resources.

@anon
I struggled in the beginning trying to decide 1.5 or 1 inch. I already had some hirst molds at 1inch and just decided to start there 1.5 could work well but would make a 12x12 pretty big. With the new legends coming out and the ability to make more modular smaller dungeon layouts 1.5 might be the best bet. The height idea is intresting and could work, I'm not sure what size unit of measurement you could use and not have it feel awkward standing next to heros at 4 and 5 high. Also because I knew I would have walls and didn't want to sacrifice too much playable space all of these boards are 14x14.

*Edit* I'm not sure how I manged to completely forget to upload pics of the Diablo 2 themed board so I just took a few and added them to a new album.


December 13th, 2015, 1:32 am
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Mephisto's Lair! Nice... Very nice!

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December 13th, 2015, 10:06 am
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Maritiku wrote:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9BDKrvkYWMY

@Teowulff
The water effects are a combination of "Super Glaze" bar top resin. I picked mine up at lowes. I use it for any standing water like the base of the fountains or pools of blood on my Diablo 2 themed board. The water in motion effects are a strand or 2 of fishing line fixed in the position you want the water to go then coated with any clear 2 part epoxy like JB Weld, anything that will dry clear and sets in about 5 mins. I debated painting on tile effects and blessings but in the end decided to skip it in the essence of time. If I decide i really want them they shouldn't be difficult to add. For tips I'd say your best bet is to search youtube for videos and tutorials for war gaming terrain and D&D terrian. You can find almost anything, great resources.

Thanks a lot! I also watched the tutorial, it's very interesting. I already got the candles but this adds an extra dimension!
You did that very well!

I will look into the water part. I also use a sort of 2-part epoxy for water but it doesn't lend itself to fountain water like you made so well, it takes 3-4 days to fully harden and stays liquid for at least a full day.

Have you ever thought of adding extra thick/wide edges, just for scenery purposes?
And how big is the total board with 14x14 tiles?


December 13th, 2015, 1:52 pm
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I usually let the super glaze part of the water set for 12-24 hours and then it's good to go.

Step 1, build and paint your fountain or pool.

Step 2, seal the bottom edges with a 2 part epoxy like JB weld that sets fast to prevent the liquid super glaze from leaking out under your fountain.

Step 3, go ahead and place your fishing line in the shape you want your flowing water to go.

Step 4, measure and mix your super glaze carefully. Since real water is not crystal clear I have some ink I picked up at Michael's that I use to tint the water. Getting the right tint will take some practice. I have blue and green ink, for most of these fountains a full drop of either is too strong so I'll play around with dipping the wooden end of a paint brush in the ink and putting less than a drop of each green and blue into the glaze and mix it up well.

Step 5, pour your resin into the pool or fountain and let it harden 12-24 hours

Step 6, mix up some clear 2 part epoxy on a paper plate and apply it to your fishing line with toothpicks, play with it until your happy with the flow.

Total board size is 14x14, for the Egyptian project I created these 2x14 hallway pieces that go between the boards so no matter how you turn the boards they fit together well and doors don't have to line up, feels more dungeon-y if that makes sense. Instead of hallways or if your board didn't have a lot of walls you could use the outer tiles and make scenery.


December 13th, 2015, 3:50 pm
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