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 Tusk Raider! New hero announced! 
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Mini-Boss
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Joined: July 3rd, 2014, 12:03 am
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Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
So I got my Tusk Rider in, and yes, I did have to pay another almost $17 to get it from the post office. This strikes me as odd, because when I ordered a large bundle (a NAS bos set, some individual figs and the iron Golem) I did not have to pay a penny. I order one !SODA! fig, and then I am dinged even more! All in all, this has cost me about $60-65 now (Canadian) which is the cost of a really good board game.

So was it worth it. Not even close. I am SO disappointed in what I have received. One thing I was curious to see is people's pics of the fig before it is assembled. I want to know what the condition is and how many pieces, etc. So here is a pic of the original packaging and then taken out of the package.

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Now the first thing that I noticed was how this model is such a far step backwards from the models which I assembled from the original box of Super Dungeon Explore. Those models had the most beautiful pins built right in to make for secure joins between the pieces. They were honestly the best models I had ever put together. Angry Bear was like a Pez dispenser! It was brilliant! But these are all flat edges, it is putting all of the pressure on the glue to do it's job. I mean, of course you should expect the glue to do it's thing, but it would be nice if they could have considered how the sculpt could assist in making sure the model stays together.

But aside from that, the pieces are really rough, with rough edges and huge pieces of flashing on them. These are s(without exaggeration) the worst pieces that I have ever seen in my life. If this company wants to charge Games Workshop prices, then they had better start coming out with some Games Workshop quality! What they have put out here is completely substandard.

And then the base. Why do they advertise the dungeon base, and then give a flat black one? I really don't like that.

Anyways, here are the pics of my pieces, showing the gigantic pieces of flashing that I am going to have to remove before I can assemble this thing.

Image

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As much as I liked the idea of this model, I am sorely disappointed that I caved in and bought it. Not worth it. I am going to write to them and tell them as much too.

I would not recommend this to anyone. Save your money. Do not buy this until they start making a better effort at delivering a quality product.

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March 14th, 2018, 1:43 am
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Denizen
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Joined: October 29th, 2012, 8:56 pm
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Yes, mine came the same way. I was also surprised by the flashing, but my understanding that's normal for resin models? I have never purchased resin before so I don't know, but the Takoashi University heroes were the same way. I luckily had some hobby tools from gundam kits to prep the model b/c I've never needed to do it with previous SDE minis.

As for the slot based assembly, I think that's something they only do with the plastic molds (at least they had slots for stuff in the SDE:L preview pics). I agree, it would've been ideal here if possible. I have a big gap b/w my Walrus's head and body, but it's not too noticeable. I don't think a masterclass model should require green stuff just to not have big gaps in it.

The customs seems absurdly high, but I live in US and generally don't buy anything that requires custom fees.

Sending them feedback I think is a good idea. I should do it, too, since I'm not sure if they're living in a bubble based on the lack of SDE:L communication.


March 14th, 2018, 2:29 am
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Minion
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These pictures do not compare to GW products - and they shouldn't be. GW products are made of hard plastic and not comparable to this.

But if you compare this to Forge World products - they are resin (and expensive). That would be a far better comparison.

BTW, Forge World resin models come with those same tabs attached that need to be cut out (at least they did when I bought them back in time. I haven't bought anything from Forge World in several years). Resin models seem to come with those tabs that needs to be removed when assembling the model. It has something to do with how the resin models are cast. So I don't really feel that those tabs are something to complain about, not really. These are meant for "expert modellers" (for whatever that means). "Expert modellers" have the right tools to deal with those tabs and flash.

How was the Tusk riders card? Mis-printed or correctly aligned?

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March 14th, 2018, 9:23 am
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Mini-Boss
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Spazzfist wrote:
Anyways, here are the pics of my pieces, showing the gigantic pieces of flashing that I am going to have to remove before I can assemble this thing.

Bit of a nitpick, but Flashing is when the resin leaks out of the mold at the seam line. those big chunks you point out ar part of the sprue and is fairly common to leave on allowing the model assembler to make a better cut. The bottom of the dwarf is what tends to happen if the factory cuts the sprue off.


March 14th, 2018, 10:06 am
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Denizen
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Being an avid Warhammer player who has recently purchased from ForgeWorld. Those big tabs are indeed part of the mold, leaving the person assembling them to clean them up. In my opinion it's kind of !SODA!, but that is the Resin version of a Spru. It's chunky and can easily cause problems when cutting it off, I would recommend just using a dremmel tool to just clean those up, no matter how time consuming, it will give you the nicest finish.


March 14th, 2018, 11:31 am
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Minion
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I just use clippers to cut it off and then a sharp knife to clean what's left. Resin is soft, so it's not really a big deal to clean.

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March 14th, 2018, 2:40 pm
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Denizen
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thanks for the clarification of flashing. I had flashing on just about every piece, but a file was able to take care most of it. i apparently missed some I noticed after I painted, but i'm not a perfectionist. I'm used to flashing from my old GW models so this didn't seem any worse and was a lot easier to file down compared to the old metal minis.


March 14th, 2018, 3:37 pm
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Minion
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Joined: March 13th, 2012, 4:26 pm
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This is par for the course with resin models, they are always going to be more work than plastic.

Remember to give all the pieces a thorough wash in warm soapy water to get that release agent off.


March 14th, 2018, 6:45 pm
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Moderator Ninja
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Also wear a mask if you dremel off the sprue. That resin is caustic.


March 14th, 2018, 7:18 pm
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Minion

Joined: April 16th, 2015, 8:22 am
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Caustic? As in burns?

I think you mean carcinogenic - I.e. causes cancer

Otherwise, what the hell is Sodapop using for resin! :p


March 14th, 2018, 7:23 pm
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Moderator Ninja
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That is indeed what I meant. Some days I am an idiot, yesterday was one of those days.


March 15th, 2018, 11:10 am
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Denizen
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Jestor wrote:
Also wear a mask if you dremel off the sprue. That resin is caustic.


I weld, im pretty sure Im screwed either way.


March 15th, 2018, 11:13 am
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Moderator Ninja
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dsdrew924 wrote:
Jestor wrote:
Also wear a mask if you dremel off the sprue. That resin is caustic.


I weld, im pretty sure Im screwed either way.

Depends on what kind of welding you do. I work at a welding shop that does TIG on Stainless and we have done extensive air testing and there are no issues.


March 15th, 2018, 12:42 pm
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Denizen
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Jestor wrote:
dsdrew924 wrote:
Jestor wrote:
Also wear a mask if you dremel off the sprue. That resin is caustic.


I weld, im pretty sure Im screwed either way.

Depends on what kind of welding you do. I work at a welding shop that does TIG on Stainless and we have done extensive air testing and there are no issues.


I do mig, tig and stick. Sometimes tig for stainless steel kitchen equipment.

Mig black Iron duct

Stick for some black iron and architectural steel.

Stick is gross!


March 15th, 2018, 1:15 pm
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Mini-Boss
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Well, after cleaning off all the flash (and in doing so found that there was even more than what I showed in the pictures) I assembled the model. Like I had said before, this was nowhere near as good as the ones from SDE 1.0. The worst was the hand holding the harpoon. there is a small ridge to add some stability, but overall it is a weak hold, and even the way the wrist is angled, there is not even room to put a pin in, even if I wanted to. Because of the harpoon, it was unbalanced, so even getting it to stay in place long enough to allow the glue to set was awkward.

Then, once the whole thing was assembled, I looked over it and noticed all the gaps. On the back end was a sizable gap that I had to fill with putty and to get the dwarf's hand even close to looking like it was holding the reins, he is not not even sitting properly in the saddle (maybe bouncing?) But try as I might, there is still a huge gap between one side of his hand and the reins. I made some attempt at puttying it, but the angle is too awkward to work with, so I am just going to leave it, at least for now.

So overall, I am really regretting having got this thing. I think their term "Masterclass" is some misleading name to tell the consumer that "you are going to have some master level skills to cover all the !SODA! work that we did in making this model"

I am so torn between the fact that I really like this game, but am SO fed up with the BS that this company keeps pumping out.

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March 15th, 2018, 6:19 pm
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Denizen
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Spazz - that really sucks :(. I didn't even bother clearing the flash from the bottom of the dwarf and just stuck him on and I didn't seem to have the issues you're describing with the harpoon or the reins not matching the hand. I had a very noticeable gap with the walrus head and body and a smaller not noticeable one in the back half of the walrus, but I don't notice it once he's on the board now that he's painted up.

I agree, the quality of the product is an embarrassment to call "Masterclass" when taking all the issues into account. I would certainly call it high priced resin with faster turnaround/availability. The only way I can rationalize the non-curved cards is if all the new cards will not be curved? At least the preview PDF cards have square corners, but maybe that's just how they are.


March 15th, 2018, 6:54 pm
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Denizen
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I really hope the card corner thing has an explanation, even if that explanation is just 'we screwed up and printed the cards wrong.' Because if all the new cards are going to have square corners I'm just going to flip a table. Not that they will be able to see me do it, but I will know.


March 15th, 2018, 8:39 pm
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Denizen
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it's part and parcel of getting resin sculpts, you get more detail, but you gotta do some cleanup work first, maybe you should have waited before jumping in head first


March 15th, 2018, 11:32 pm
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Mini-Boss
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Lizardman wrote:
it's part and parcel of getting resin sculpts, you get more detail, but you gotta do some cleanup work first, maybe you should have waited before jumping in head first


The cleanup is just one of the issues.

To give a brief recap of what I had said before, the original plastics were WAY better than this, in all respects.

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March 16th, 2018, 4:17 am
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Mini-Boss
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I got Tusk Raider yesterday and finally got to look it over. First thing, the ridge on the bottom of the of the Dwarf isn't flash, don't remove it. I was originally thinking I'd have to sand it down but quickly realized it's there to fit into the saddle and give better surface contact. I did find 2 defects with mine. I'm not sure why but the harpoon pommel was missing a chunk opposite the sprue, it was definitely cut as it was flat. the reins on mine were short on the right side, it doesn't make it to the tips of his knuckle let alone the contact point at the back of his hand. It's a clean break, so it was either cut or the resin didn't make it into the mold in that section. Otherwise, the model seemed pretty good, no huge gaps, and the flash came off fairly easily.


March 23rd, 2018, 1:18 pm
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